The Flaming Marshmallow Vortec evolution thread

[Reserector [Veteran Member]]

You are indeed correct about the japanese toyotas rusting. Pickup beds from the early and mid 1980s are extremely rare because most have rusted beyond salvage.

My frame is made from parts of Promethius. The mud is there to protect it from Earth's sunlight.

But seriously, the frame is fine.

[balage [Veteran Member]]

You are indeed correct about the japanese toyotas rusting. Pickup beds from the early and mid 1980s are extremely rare because most have rusted beyond salvage.

My frame is made from parts of Promethius. The mud is there to protect it from Earth's sunlight.

But seriously, the frame is fine.

When disassembled, it's customary to rinse the inside of the frame with oil, or any anticorrosion stuff.

[dvdswan [Veteran Member]]

I hate salt water... nice progress.

[Reserector [Veteran Member]]

I got some more done after work, in spite of the rain. I was determined to get the cab on its front mounts so I could let it down off the hoist.

I repaired and reconstructed the corner, and welded out the mount channel. I still need to patch in the floor, but that can wait a bit.




With the front corners rebuilt, I set up the new urethane mounts, along with the lift blocks. The mounts are a set for Chevy C10 trucks. This seemed to be the set that was best suited to how I plan to set it up. The original Nissan rear mounts are really weird, so they will be redesigned to use the more common C10 mounts.

I upgraded from 12mm bolts to 1/2"-13 Grade 8 bolts. I needed to enlarge the front cab mount frame perches a bit for the shoulders of the new mounts, but only a tiny bit.
The mounts are not tight, because I still need to raise the rear and reconstruct the rear mounts.

[Reserector [Veteran Member]]

Rear cab mount surgery commences:
Pics are in no particular order. The rear mount areas consist of an inner and outer layer of sheet metal. There is a thicker piece of metal, with a weld-nut on it, that is spot welded to the bottom sheet. I had to cut away the upper layer to get to the weld nut. These have to go, so that I can use 1/2" bolts.
The weld-nut plates were breaking out, or broken out already. I will repair by welding a steel disc on the bottom, and one on the inside of the bottom sheet. Then, I will patch the inside layer back, but will leave an opening for bolt head access.

[Clinton Thomas [Veteran Member]]

I had the same thing happen to me on a 98 Z71, body lift poked a hole up through the floor board, I ended up adding some 3/8 plate to all the upper bushing areas, spreads that weight out on the bottom of the cab a little better! I've been reading this thread, excited to see it all come together for you, should be a beast with a v8 in there!

[Reserector [Veteran Member]]

I'm pretty sure the lift will add some strain of its own, so that is even more reason to beef it up in those areas.

[Reserector [Veteran Member]]

I worked late into the evening, and finished up the rear mounts. The four main cab mounts are officially done and tightened.
I only git a few pics. It was dark, and I was moving right along.

One interesting thing I noticed is that the mounting plates for the standard cab were included in my King Cab floor. Seems strange that those reinforcements were not omitted. Maybe they also anchor the seat belts or something...






Next thing is to cut away the front radiator support areas that need to be reconstructed, and then remove the engine and trans/transfer.
Then to remove my tools from the cab and thoroughly clean inside and out.
Cut the firewall enough to get the new engine in there.
Next, I start tearing down the Chevy, and set the engine, trans and transfer in place.
Make mounts and crossmember
Build new rad support
Build new front body mounts and bumper mounts around the Chevy radiator.
Reinforce the inner fenders to support batteries, etc.
fit the heat/AC unit, and plan the dash install
Close in the firewall
And on and on ......

[balage [Veteran Member]]

[dvdswan [Veteran Member]]

awesome work.