I have had a recent problem with my right inner CV boot coming unclamped on the big end. New CV clamps and hose clamps are not working to hold it. I will need to replace this CV axle soon because I don't want the old one to fail and leave me stranded. At the same time I do this, I will also replace a bad bearing (near the RH axle seal) and both axle seals.
To my understanding, CV axle replacement is:
- remove wheel
- remove big axle nut
- separate a ball joint
- slide CV axle backwards out of wheel bearing
- slide CV axle out of axle tube
Am I missing anything?
Am I correct in thinking that the next step would be the seal, then the bearing?
Then re-assemble?
This is a big project for me. I have most of the tools for it (need BJ separator, seal puller, bearing puller), but never done CV stuff. Any other advice?
Thanks in advance.
Steve
your cv axel should be bolted on at the housing
twistedjeeper Wrote:your cv axel should be bolted on at the housing
Some GM axles "pop" in, but I wouldn't know about the 4x4.
You forgot to remove the brake caliper and hang it out of the way.
Shocks?
I am asuming it has torsion bars, not coils.
Yes, torsion bars.
I didn't think about the shocks, but you're right, they probably need to be removed. I was thinking that I might be able to rotate the whole wheel assembly out when I separate the BJ, but the hose (and the ABS senson wire) might get in the way.
I would also need to disconect the sway bar.
My CV axles aren't bolted to a flange, they slip in. Kinda like the rear driveshaft on most GM RWD transmissions.
Thanks guys for the quick relpys... keep 'em comin'
Steve
What model truck is it? It should be a four bolt flange that holds the axle to the housing. As far as the wheel bearing, you replace the "wheel bearing, hub assembly." All the bearing are sealed type.
*Put a jackstand under the frame.
*Remove the tire, and big nut, wouldn't hurt to remove brake caliper to make it easier moving assembly around when upper ball joint is removed. Take alose the anti-lock brake wires, if you got them.
* Put a jack underneath the lower control arm. Loosen nut on upper ball joint, take a hammer and knock the sh*t out of the spindle where the ball joint goes through. Might take a couple of hits. Once its loose, make sure jack is up high enough that lower control arm won't fly down. Remove nut on upper ball joint.
* Once upper ball joint is off, then undo four bolts holding axle to center section. Might have to bump the end of axle out of bearing assembly.
* If wanting to replace bearings, remove rotor assembly from spindle. There are three or four bolts that hold the bearing to the spindle. You get to those bolts threw the holes in between the lug studs. Knock bearing out of spindle.
* To reinstall do in reverse order.
MAKE SURE to tighten the big nut on the end of the axle, if it comes loose, the bearing will come apart and the wheel and tire will pass you going down the road!
Hope this helps you out.
Well, it might be different than a fullsize, sorry. But I think that the bearings are still gonna be a sealed type, where you have to change bearings and hubs as an assembly. I know that the older 4x4 s-10's where.
Well I'm diving into it tomorrow. I have the RH CV axle and bearing and seal. I rented a slide hammer puller for the bearing, and bought a seal puller. I already had a ball joint pickle fork.
Separating the BJ is the part I am most scared of. I really don't want to tear the boot.
If I'm REALLY lucky, I'm be done 14 hour from now.
Steve
a good blow from a 3lb usaly pops them loose